Episodes

  • #108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!

    #108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!
    Nov 12 2024
    In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com 32:13 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 51:03 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:28 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
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    1 hr and 3 mins
  • #107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!)

    #107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!)
    Oct 8 2024

    One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game.

    The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental!

    While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance.

    Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better you’ll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts.

    Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition!

    This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    Links to more Training For Climbing!

    • The Power of Pre-Climb Rituals >>
    • 10 Does and Don'ts of Effective Redpointing >>
    • How To Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing >>

    Music by Misty Murphy

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    38 mins
  • #106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance

    #106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance
    Oct 3 2024

    This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:

    • 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting.
    • 2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging.

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music Remix of the Police

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    20 mins
  • #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends

    #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends
    Sep 17 2024

    This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:

    • 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when.
    • 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk.

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music Remix of the Police

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    16 mins
  • #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids

    #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids
    Sep 10 2024

    In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing!

    There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever!

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music: Remix of The Police

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    15 mins
  • #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years

    #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years
    Sep 4 2024

    This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.

    The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years.

    Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics:

    • How to raise kid climbers...to be happy, healthy athletes...and, hopefully, pass on the gift of becoming a climber for life.
    • How (and when) to stretch and train flexibility for climbing. Also, a pithy discussion of climbing injury trends.
    • Potential benefits (and drawbacks) of ice baths (or cold plunges), intermittent fasting, and sauna use.

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music by Misty Murphy

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    20 mins
  • #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!

    #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!
    Aug 8 2024

    What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

    This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.

    We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:

    • What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season

    • How to carry a project over from one season to the next

    • The secret to being a successful route climber

    • Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training

    • The science of building route fitness

    • Why many climbers are training endurance wrong

    So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

    This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

    T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music by Misty Murphy

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    1 hr and 30 mins
  • #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine

    #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine
    Jul 9 2024
    Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance. The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being. RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    1 hr and 4 mins