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Slowly Down the Ganges

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Slowly Down the Ganges

By: Eric Newby
Narrated by: James Bryce
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About this listen

‘Slowly Down the Ganges’ is seen as a vintage Newby masterpiece, alongside ‘A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush’ and ‘Love and War in the Apennines’. Told with Newby's self-deprecating humour and wry attention to detail, this is a classic of the genre and a window into an enchanting piece of history.

On his forty-forth birthday, Eric Newby sets out on an incredible journey: to travel the 1,200-mile length of India's holy river. In a misguided attempt to keep him out of trouble, Wanda, his life-long travel companion and wife, is to be his fellow boatwoman. Their plan is to begin in the great plain of Hardwar and finish in the Bay of Bengal, but the journey almost immediately becomes markedly slower and more treacherous than either had imagined – running aground sixty-three times in the first six days.

Travelling in a variety of unstable boats, as well as by rail, bus and bullock cart, and resting at sandbanks and remote villages, the Newbys encounter engaging characters and glorious mishaps, including the non-existence of large-scale maps of the country, a realisation that questions of pure 'logic' cause grave offense and, on one occasion, the only person in sight for miles is an old man who is himself unsure where he is. Newby's only consolation: on a river, if you go downstream, you're sure to end up somewhere…

©2019 Eric Newby (P)2019 HarperCollins Publishers Limited
Adventurers, Explorers & Survival Asia Travel Writing & Commentary Transportation War Feel-Good Hinduism
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Critic reviews

'All the dusty enchantment and the recurrent dottiness of India – its exasperating charm – are in these pages' Eric Linklater

'Any book by Eric Newby is an event' Len Deighton

'Impossible to describe adequately the flavour of this delicious story … vintage Newby delicately salted with “The Wind in the Willows” and “Three Men in a Boat”' Guardian

'No journey into an unmapped interior to carry the word or find a lost explorer was more obstinately seen through to its end than this do-it-yourself pleasure trip … Mr Newby has fine descriptive gifts and a deft touch in casual portraiture' Times Literary Supplement

'One of the finest and certainly the funniest of British travel writers' Sunday Times

What listeners say about Slowly Down the Ganges

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A long and meandering, but ultimately satisfying journey

Fascinating. A meandering trip through time and space. You share in their frustrations and relief.

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Brilliant Book.

Brilliant book. The following is superfluous nonsense to make the word count. Eric Newby is brilliant.

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India


This was quite an interesting narrative, that was a bit slow in some places. It was very well performed which I think improved it.

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Appalling book

I'm really surprised to learn that this book was published 5 years ago because it has so many racist comments or behaviours. Newby clearly doesn't like Indians and so I honestly don't know why he went on this trip. His white male superiority is really grating and I really didn't want to know about how he went 'blackface' when visiting a brothel. Avoid.

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Lost the will to live long enough to finish it.

Sadly this was a bad choice. I have read several Newby's including A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush and his WW11 account of capture, escape and romance but The Great Grain Race was the best for me. In each the amazing amateur approach is after a while too exasperating. Thus is a very very very slow trip with awful errors, mismanagement, total lack of research and near death contact with dysentery that really tries patience. The river itself, its surroundings at various stages is underwhelming. The best bit was a conversation with Nehru.

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